Exploring Animas Forks, Colorado

A Jewel in the San Juan Mountains

Animas Forks is located on a system of roads known as the Alpine Loop. The loop is a 65 mile system of unpaved roads which connects the small mountain towns of Lake City, Ouray, and Silverton. Most of the land in the area is managed by either the U.S. Forest Service or the Bureau of Land Management. The Alpine Loop is visited by over 100,000 people each year. Animas Forks, at an elevation of 11,200 feet is more than two miles above sea level.

Some Town History

Named for the three forks of the Animas River, which flows through the town site. It is tucked away twelve miles northeast of Silverton, Colorado, at 11,300 feet — more than two miles — above sea level. The first log cabin was built in 1873. The Town was off to a good start in 1875 and advertised itself as being the "largest town in the world." But then the fine print that followed said "at this altitude" which was 11,300 feet above sea level.

By 1876, this bustling mining community boasted 30 cabins, several stores, a hotel, saloons, two assay offices, a boarding house (which served other purposes as well), shops and many other buildings. The population grew to about 450 people by 1883. The town also had a newspaper, The Animas Forks Pioneer, published from June 1882 through October 1886 at the highest newspaper printing plant in the history of the United States.

Before Silverton became an incorporated town, Animas Forks was the San Juan County seat, where court cases were heard. One man who was fined $10 and court costs didn't like the outcome of his trial. During the trial he promised the judge, "I'll take this to a higher court!" Responded the wry judge Dyer, "There is no such thing. This is the highest court in the United States."

Snow! Lots of Snow!

Avalanches were the curse of Animas Forks. Often, the snow would slide down one side of the mountain and up the other side, the sides of the canyon being that close together. Frequently destroying buildings and stopping incoming travelers. Every fall, most residents left in a mass exodus to "warmer" Silverton. In 1884, Animas Forks suffered a blizzard that lasted 23 days and dumped 25 feet of snow on the town. Residents dug tunnels to get from building to building.

The Start of the Decline

Mining projects, processing mills, and the quest for gold and silver led to the rapid growth of Animas Forks. The town declined when mining profits no longer justified investments. The 70's and 80's were good years but it didn't last into the next century. Most of the richer mines began to peter out forcing the mills to close down and allowing the town to return to a much slower pace.

Mining activity rebounded briefly with the construction of the Gold Prince Mill in 1904. Completion of a rail line to Animas Forks also stimulated mining interests, but the rail line success fell short of expectations. The Gold Prince Mill ceased operation in 1910. In 1917, miners removed the mill's major parts for use in a new mill at the nearby town of Eureka. Dismantling the mill signaled the start of the final decline for Animas Forks, reducing the community to a ghost town by the 1920's.

Exploring the Animas Forks Today

Many good maps of the area may be purchased at Outdoor World in Silverton. The Map of the Mountains of Silverton, Telluride and Ouray is the one we used in our explorations.

From Silverton travel northeast on highway 110 (this is what the map calls this dirt road) along the Animas River for approxamately 11 miles. The road may be dirt but it can be easily traveled in the family car. On the way you will pass through what is left of the towns of Howardsville, Middleton and Eureka.

Animas Forks lies, for the most part, on the left side of the road. There is a rather large parking lot and a BLM restroom for your convenience, but no water or camping facilities. The site is not patrolled by rangers, but locals are very protective of the area! Unlike many Ghost Towns in "Arrested Decay", you are able to enter many of the structures, including the Walsh House. Treat the site with respect, take only pictures, explore!

The most well preserved and most photographed building in Animas Forks is the Duncan/Walsh House. Built in 1879 by William Duncan, a postman and miner who struck it rich in the surrounding mountains.

This three story mansion was the largest building in town. It's most prominent feature was the large bay window on the front of the house, facing the Columbus Mill. Guess ole William wanted to keep an eye on his Gold!

It was purchased some years later by Tom Walsh, discoverer of the famous Campbird Mine in Telluride Colorado.

Tom's daughter, Evalyn, who in 1908 elpoed, against her family's best advice with the handsome heir to the Washington Post fortune, Edward Beale McLean. Though she never lived in the house, she was the last private owner of the Hope Diamond! Just thought you might like to know.

There are a few other buildings still remaining, but coming Colorado Winters will take their toll on what is left.

Across the road stands what is left of the Columbia Mill. Many good photo opportunities in and around these ruins, but please be careful! The Mill and surrounding buildings and structures are old! The slightest bump could bring debris down on you and what might look solid could collapse under your weight.

Check out the Safety Tips for exploring ghost towns and old mining areas in How to Photograph Ghost Towns.

The BEST Time to Visit Animas Forks

Mid June to the end of September is a great time to visit Animas Forks. But the weather in the San Juan Mountains is very unpredictable at any time of year, so call ahead and come prepared! Dress in layers and be prepared for afternoom thunder storms!(a mountain photographer is never very far from his or her rain gear!) But don't let inclement weather keep you or your camera in the car!

On the day we were in Animus Forks it was overcast and alittle gloomy! I was even hoping for some rain showers! Not in the cards, but the overcast, nature's own soft box, presented us with very saturated colors and haunting vistas! What a great day to photograph a Ghost Town!

Things to Do and See while in the Area

My "Top Pick" is the Narrow Guage Steam Train from Durango up the Animas Canyon to Silverton! Beautiful scenery, wonderful photo opportunities and you get to ride a steam train to boot!

You have three options with this trip! You can take a Motorcoach to Silverton and ride the train back to Durango. You can ride the train to Silverton and Motorcoach back to Durango OR ride the train round trip! You can't beat this option for th most photographic opportunities. Tip: The best place for picture taking is on the right side of the last open car on the train!(the last two seats are also the best)

Next on my list would be the "Alpine Loop". The Alpine Loop can be accessed from the Animas Forks parking lot! Follow the signs to Cinnamon Pass to travel counter clockwise or to Engineer Pass to travel clockwise.

The trip requires an adventurous spirit and a high clearance four wheel drive vehicle. Don't let this scare you! We encountered several SUV's that had no trouble completing the Loop. And if you don't want to take your vehicle, you can rent a Jeep or some ATV's in Silverton or Ouray. The road can be very narrow in places and passing is difficult. Remember, vehicles traveling up hill have the right-of-way.

If you DO decide to make this 65 mile trek it will take you over two 12,000+ foot passes (Engineer 12,800 ft. and Cinnamon 12,620 ft.) and through some of the most magnificent scenery in Colorado, or the World for that matter!

Driving at a slower pace, the area affords an opportunity to look backward in time. Remnants of the past can be seen on and in the landscape. Historic structures, old railroad roadbeds, tramways and mine headframes tell a story of times past and a much different, and more difficult, way of life!

A Drive Worth Taking

Next on the "To Do" list would be the "Million Dollar Highway". Some say that it cost one million dollars a mile to build back in 1924, and still others say it contains one million dollars in gold ore!

The fact is that the 75-mile stretch of highway 550 is a breathtaking journey through the majestic mountain passes of western Colorado. Between the old mining towns of Silverton and Ouray the road crosses the Red Mountain Pass at 11,008 feet. As the road continues to slice through the mountainside, winding along hairpin switchback curves, many without guard rails, million dollar vistas await you around every corner.

Stunning views of the never ending countryside, landscapes of wildflowers in the spring, black bear, elk, deer and mountain gaots. Truly a picture postcard image of the American West!

Places to Eat

There are many really good places to eat in Silverton, but one of our favorites is Natalia's 1912 Family Restaurant located at the corner of 12th and Blair Streets.

Originally known as the Welcome House, this building built in 1883, was one of Silverton's infamous bordellos. It still has the hidden stairway used to sneak it's many patron's upstairs after they enjoyed a hearty meal!

Just step inside and be transported to another time. Pull a stool up to the bar, order a drink, and ask the owners, Bill or Lucy, to spin you a tale of Natalia's colorful past.

If you like beer, the Silverton Brewery, located at 1333 Greene Street is your kind of place! The original Silverton Brewery opened in September of 1880. In 1884, Charles Fischer purchased the brewery. Production reached a peak in 1886, at 5,500 barrels.

In 1901, Fischer leased the brewery to William Schultz. Schultz, trained as a master brewer in Germany, managed the brewery successfully and changed the name to Schultz Brewery.

In 1912, the business was sold to Charles Faden and associates. Thereafter, it operated until the onset of prohibition. Silverton went without a brewery until the current Silverton Brewery opened for business in June of 2005.

The brewing system became fully operational in April of 2006. The five-barrel system has been producing fine beers ever since. And the food is not bad either!

Places to Stay

When we are in the area, you can find us at the Red Mountain Motel and RV Park, located at 664 Greene Street. They have Motel Rooms, Cabins, RV Hook-Ups, Tent Sites, Hot Showers, Jeep Rentals and they gladly accept pets. Down town Silverton is within easy walking distance.

Another one of our picks is the Triangle Motel. Located at 364 Greene Street, itt is extremely clean, friendly & family owned. Silverton's only AAA motel is all non-smoking. They have both studios & suites available with complete kitchen facilities. Easy walking distance to downtown & train.

For a really fine place to stay, we recommend The Teller House Hotel located at 1250 Green Street.

In 1896, Silverton brewery owner Charles Fischer built The Teller House was built in 1896 by the Silverton brewery owner Charles Fischerto provide guest rooms for Silverton's turn of the century visitors. Since then The Teller House has continued to provide guests with an experience reminiscent of Mr. Fischer's original vision.

In 1997, the Teller House Hotel was fully restored to it's original Victorian charm. The guest rooms retained their original woodwork and high ceilings, and are currently furnished with 19th century antiques and Victorian period decor.

The Teller House combines the tasteful Victorian aesthetics of the late 1800's with the modern amenities of today. Located in the heart of Silverton, within easy walking distance of the Durango & Silverton Scenic Train Depot, restaurants, shops, the Museum, and the mighty Animas River.

In Conclusion

We hope that we have convinced you to ride the Silverton Train, visit Animas Forks, Silverton, the Alpine Loop, and the Million Dollar Highway. The scenery and history can't be beat and we'll bet you come away with some really great photographs and stories to share with your friends!

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